5 local fashion designers we're currently obsessed with
The South African fashion landscape is bursting with colourful creativity, flourishing with international promise. In addition to drawing from the rich cultural heritage and diversity, designers have their fingers on the pulse of sustainability. Furthermore, they create clothing with sustainability and eco-friendly practices in mind. We’ve compiled a list of our current favourite local fashion designers. It includes both those who are new to the fashion scene, as well as those who are established – all of whom are making waves locally and abroad.
Michael Ludwig Studio
Based in Cape Town, Michael Ludwig Studio is a contemporary, slow fashion brand that places a strong emphasis on gender-fluid aesthetics. Designer Michael Ludwig Hittinger was a SA Fashion Week New Talent finalist in 2021. Evidently, he earned a collaboration with Sakura Collection, which exhibited in New York the following year. Hittinger was also among the few designers selected to show at the Milan Fashion Week as part of an exchange programme called À-Propos in 2023. In essence, his beautiful designs are bold and complementary in colour. You’ll also often find a fusion of Eastern and African design influences in his work.
Merwe Mode
Deeva van der Merwe, a graduate of FEDISA with a BA degree in Fashion Design and Business Management, founded Merwe Mode in 2014. This followed some valuable experience at Tom Ford’s studio in London. Celebrating its 10th year, Merwe Mode has been featured in a number of Men’s fashion weeks locally and in Mozambique. The style evolves with the collections, but the love for clean lines, bold colours, subtle details and androgyny serve as a golden thread.
Black Coffee
Predominantly a womenswear label, South African designer, Jacques van der Watt founded Black Coffee in 1998. Black Coffee’s designs are layered with shapes that seem simple, yet complex. Flipping through Black Coffee’s nearly-two-decade-spanning archive, you’ll notice how designs build on previous collections from year to year. In this way, the pieces are dramatic while maintaining timelessness.
VIVIERS
VIVIERS garments are first created by sculpting paper prototypes out of brown paper, folding and unfolding them into new silhouettes. Next, they’re developed into Calico fabric to get a feel for comfort. Finally, it is hand-cut into a combination of contrasting techniques and textiles (weaving and knitting), integrated with pieces of reclaimed fabric from discarded luxury manufacturers. We mention this process because it’s the only way to begin to understand VIVIERS’ completely unique aesthetic. The garments’ colours, textures and shapes are truly remarkable, to say the least.
The BAM Collective
Based in Centurion, The BAM Collective is the brainchild of young designer, Jacques Bam. It’s a clothing brand that takes a fun, fresh approach to South African luxury fashion. After completing a BA in Fashion Design (2017), amid his BA Honours in Fashion (2018), Bam won the SA Fashion Week student competition. The following year, he launched The BAM Collective, collaborating with many major South African brands like Ford South Africa, Savanna Cider, Hisense South Africa and many more. The garments favour bold colours, or black and white monochromes with very few patterns (with the exception of large polka dots). Cinched waists, flared sleeves and pant legs are all made to measure, ensuring the perfect fit every time.
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