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Inside Chef Michelle Theron’s World at Vergenoegd Wine Estate

True farm-to-fork cooking, heritage flavours and the magic of autumn in the Cape Winelands

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Michelle Theron at Vergenoegd

Seasonality has become part of everyday dining, particularly in the Cape, where chefs increasingly cook with local harvests front of mind. Recently appointed to lead gastronomy at Vergenoegd Löw Wine Estate in Stellenbosch, Executive Chef Michelle Theron brings more than 20 years of fine-dining experience to a 160-hectare farm known for regenerative agriculture and its famous flock of Indian Runner ducks, which naturally manage pests in the vineyards. Formerly at La Motte and Hazendal Wine Estate, she now oversees Geuwels and Clara’s Barn, working closely with growers to shape menus around seasonal produce. We catch up with Michelle to talk farm-grown feasts, Cape-inspired cooking and why autumn offers her favourite ingredients to play with.

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Vergenoegd Wine Estate Landscape

Our Q&A With Chef Michelle Theron from Vergenoegd Wine Estate

HLM: You’ve cooked in some iconic kitchens. What was it about Vergenoegd Löw that made you say yes, this feels like home?

MT: There was an immediate sense of integrity here. Vergenoegd Löw Wine Estate knows its history, its land and its responsibility to both. When I walked the farm and spent time in the kitchens, everything felt honest and generous. That alignment between place, people and purpose feels rare, and it gave me a sense of belonging straight away – somewhere I could settle in and do meaningful work.

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HLM: Your food is often described as grounded and honest. What does that mean to you when you step into the kitchen each day?

MT: For me, it means cooking with intention rather than ego. I want ingredients to shine in their own right, techniques to support the product and dishes to feel comforting while still surprising. It comes down to respecting where everything comes from and allowing beautiful produce to lead the way.

“We consider the entire ecosystem – soil health, water, animals and people – and translate that into food that feels complete, with intention behind every element.”

Vergenoegd Wine Estate Ducks

HLM: Vergenoegd Löw talks about an “ecoverse” rather than just a farm. How does that philosophy show up on the plate?

MT: It shows up through balance and restraint. We consider the entire ecosystem – soil health, water, animals and people – and translate that into food that feels complete, never excessive. You’ll see whole-ingredient cooking, seasonal focus and plates that tell a story of connection, with intention behind every element.

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HLM: Autumn is a season of slowing down and settling in. How does this time of year influence the way you think about flavour and comfort?

MT: Autumn brings depth. I gravitate towards slower cooking, richer stocks, gentle spice and textures that feel nurturing. It’s about warmth and lingering flavours that invite you to stay at the table a little longer.

HLM: When guests sit down at Geuwels this autumn, what kind of experience do you hope they leave with, emotionally as much as gastronomically?

MT: I hope they feel genuinely cared for. That sense that someone paid attention to every detail – the food, the pacing, the atmosphere, the generosity. Ideally, guests leave feeling calmer, quietly inspired and deeply satisfied.

HLM: What ingredients from the farm excite you most right now as the weather turns cooler?

MT: The root vegetables are at their best right now – earthy, sweet and full of character. I’m also loving the brassicas and cooler-weather herbs. Everything carries a robustness that feels wonderfully grounding.

Vergenoegd Wine Estate food

HLM: When you’re creating dishes, how much do the estate’s wines lead the process? Does it start with the glass or the plate?

MT: It’s a conversation between the two. Sometimes a wine sparks an idea straight away, other times the dish comes first and evolves alongside the wine. The beauty of working on an estate like this lies in that collaboration. Food and wine grow together. We often say we’re driven by the grape, so having the chance to complement each wine with thoughtful dishes that highlight its character feels incredibly rewarding.

HLM: Clara’s Barn has earned serious recognition. How do you build on that momentum while bringing your own voice into the kitchens?

MT: With respect and patience. Honouring what made it special matters, while allowing the kitchen to grow organically. I’m here to add a new chapter that feels true to both me and the estate.

HLM: You’re stepping into a role previously held by heavyweight names. How do you stay confident and true to yourself in that space?

MT: By remembering I was chosen for a reason. Confidence comes from preparation, honesty and trusting your instincts. I stay focused on the work, the team and the guests – everything else fades into the background.

HLM: What’s one autumn dish at Geuwels that really captures who you are as a chef right now?

MT: A slow-braised dish using estate produce, paired with something bright and fresh from the garden. That feels very “me” right now. A current favourite is slow-braised Dexter beef shin with amasi and kapokbos dumplings.

HLM: Your career spans fine dining and large estates. What lessons from earlier chapters are most valuable in this new one?

MT: Adaptability and humility. Wherever you are, learning continues – from the land, your team and your guests. Consistency and kindness matter just as much as creativity.

HLM: Sustainability can feel like a buzzword. How do you keep it practical and delicious rather than preachy?

MT: By letting flavour lead. When something tastes incredible, persuasion becomes unnecessary. Sustainability enhances creativity and depth, and always feels more powerful when it comes through the food itself.

HLM: How do you reinterpret Cape food traditions without losing their soul?

MT: By understanding the why before adjusting the how. Traditions grow from climate, culture and necessity. I honour those foundations while gently evolving techniques or presentation, instead of starting from scratch.

HLM: Wine estates are often seen as special occasion destinations. How do you make the food feel welcoming and unpretentious?

MT: Through warmth and generosity. Food shines when it feels approachable. Familiar flavours, thoughtful service and an open-door energy help people relax and enjoy themselves fully.

HLM: Looking ahead to your first autumn at Vergenoegd Löw, what are you most excited to explore, experiment with or perfect?

MT: I’m excited to understand the land through each season and deepen our relationships with the garden, the farmers and the cellar. Autumn feels like the start of something steady and lasting, and I look forward to nurturing that slowly and with intention.

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